Sunday, October 6, 2024

Chinese Cloisonne Beads in Western Fashion Jewelry 1930s-40s: Large Flat Oval Beads - A Miriam Haskell/Frank Hess Connection?

This interesting necklace sold recently at auction, and the vendor kindly granted permission to use their photos in a blog post here.  In the past ten years since I started this blog to investigate Chinese cloisonne beads, I’ve only encountered two other instances of this design featuring large flat oval beads, frilly filigree petal caps, and fabric cord - one featuring dragon beads and turquoise-colored stone nuggets, the other a center fragment that had lost its fabric ties (Collector’s Weekly, 2017).  A suite of 10 beads similar to those in the necklace fragment appeared on eBay in 2014, but close comparison revealed that they are different from the necklace fragment beads.








Collector's Weekly 2017

eBay auction set of 12 beads 2014

The Chinese workshop that produced these flat oval beads seems to have favored only a few designs: a dragon, plum blossom buds, and chrysanthemums.  These designs are worked either with the enamel background fully filled in or left unfilled with the golden brassy background exposed in the “golden ground” technique (also called openwork).  

These large flat oval beads also appear in other jewelry designs: another fabric composition featuring metal-covered silk cords; rather barbaric heavy brass torque-style necklaces and bracelet; a very simple design that simply hangs three pendants from a heavy brass chain; and elaborate jewelry featuring gemstones and filigree findings. 







Pay attention to the filigree petal stampings and the brass drops – we’ll be seeing a lot more of them in upcoming posts regarding “Chinese”-themed jewelry attributed to the Miriam Haskell/Frank Hess atelier prior to World War II.

A timeline for events in these decades:

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